Walden Wanderings:
A journey through the Middle East

by Stuart Hickox

Part 3: When we remember Zion
Review Part 1
Review Part 2

Aleppo, Syria - February 17,1995
Holy month of Ramadan

Darkness falls quickly here at this time of year, and so does silence. Utter silence. At 5:30 pm the streets are suddenly empty, shops are closed, and traffic stops. Everyone is inside enjoying the break of the Ramadan fast. I am alone. It's eerie how the city becomes deserted, then comes back to life again at about 7PM with renewed vigour and enthusiasm as freshly-fed folks head out into the streets for cigarettes, conversation and shopping. Crowds gather around well-lit shops with windows stacked high with syrupy baklava and other sweet delights.

Tonight I joined a crowd at a local
restaurant for shish taouk and salad. As an
act of defiance, I even ordered first one
beer, then a second. It came in big half-litre bottles. The brand was Al-Shark. The label had a big lightning bolt on it. Very dramatic.

Ahhh, beeeer. Al Shark was great --my first brewskie in 2 weeks. The manager assured me that I was offending no one (even though I was escorted to a corner table upstairs for my indulgence). I asked one of the waiters, a boy who had to be no more than 12 years old, for a light for my after-dinner Marlboro (another ritual here). He gladly offered one and then, moments later, came back with an entire pack of matches (an odd Arab type which take some hard swings to put out).

I was in heaven. Then, somewhat indulgently, I thought to myself how nice it would be to hear some Western music for a change. Not one minute later the local arab music that was playing stopped and was replaced by . . .

"By the river of Babylon,
where we sat down . . .
. . .
when we remember Zion" . . .

I think it was Boney M on 8-track, but I'm not sure. The whole thing about Zion was particularly odd, considering where we were. I wondered if the selection was some kind of message.

The whole song played and then, after a short pause, the arabic music started again. My evening was complete. I butted out my Marlboro and thanked God for His brief answer to my subconscious prayer.

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Watch for Part Four, coming soon.

stuart@accolade.ca