Walden Wanderings:
A journey through the Middle East

by Stuart Hickox

Part 2: The Soothing Hammam
Review Part 1

Aleppo, Syria - 1995

Dear Family and Friends:

Today I visited the "highly recommended" Hammam al-Nosi, a Turkish bath just across the rampart from the ancient Aleppo Citadel. The concept of Turkish baths riles against our accepted norms in North America - and I approached with some hesitation. But I needed a break from the noise, and a good sauna ... and so in I went...

...a wonderful place...

After paying the relatively princely sum of $3 to enter, I was enveloped in a cathedral-like building of vaulted tile ceilings punctuated by small stained glass windows. The walls and floor were simple white marble. I was led by a silent attendant to the center of the main domed building. There, a door of hanging beads along the walls veiled the change area where clothes and shoes were exchanged for a simple terri-cloth wrap and wooden clogs. I was then led to a large steam room that was fitted with marble basins and coloured glass ball points of light in the domed ceiling. The air was thick, wet, and heavy and all I did was sit, and think, and sweat, and sweat some more. I visited in mid-afternoon and was alone.

After about 45 minutes of steam, the nod of yet another silent attendant led me out of the main sauna area to one of many small off-shoot rooms. I was gestured to lie down on a marble slab next to a small basin. Quietly and gently, the attendant washed me, all except the genitals, with a chunk of grainy soap and and a hand-sized loofah pad. At first I had mixed feelings about this. It was a very sensual experience, but not sexual. Once I made that distinction in my mind, separating what we in the West have clouded into one, I was able to enjoy being there, so far from home and so far removed from my known reality. It was a luxury, and a wonderfully relaxing respite from the world outside.

The cleansing was followed by a complete body massage that must have lasted 40 minutes, had I not drifted off. I was disappointed when it ended. For the first time in my trip, and for only a few moments, I had transcended myself, and had left my cares behind.

A quick rinse and I was back in the outer room, back on my little couch within the beaded change area. A third attendant arrived suddenly, proffered a fresh towel, and then proceeded to wrap me up in puffy soft sheets, including head gear, to dry off. All dressed so, I looked like I was about to audition for the part of Joseph or one of the shepherds in a Christmas children's concert. I had to laugh. Fifteen minutes or so of blissful quiet, a tea, and a change back to my Western garb and I was back in the streets. The rush and noise of the Aleppo day seemed much less troubling. It was like I had just been born, all pink and wrinkled and fresh.

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Watch for Part Three, coming soon.

stuart@accolade.ca